The Key to getting Water Slide transfers to work…
First, the thing I hate the most is the stupid cloudy outline around the actual transfer. It takes all the work I did on the model and makes the whole thing look crappy. Thankfully, I found the way to make it work….
First I put a layer of tesors Gloss Coat over the area… This does a couple of things. First, it gets rid of the imperfections from where I’ve slapped paint on the area… (ie, it smooths everything out) Second, I “think” it gets rid of the cloudy bits around the edges of the transfer when you put it down…. If I’m doing a marine shoulder pad, then I’ll hit both of them with the gloss and then cut out the transfers. The trick is that you want the gloss coat to be tacky when you lay down your transfer. Normally, the time between when I apply the gloss and when I get the transfer ready is enough.
When putting the transfer in water, I only keep it there till the paper turns a darker shade. Then I use my thumb and forefinger to slide it halfway off and then pull it the rest of the way off with a pair of tweezers.
Once you put the transfer down, then you want to make sure you’re laying it down as flat as it can be. Normally this means I’ll have a couple of areas where it’s raised that I need to cut with my hobby knife. If you’re laying something down that round like an “o” onto a curved space, then you will want to score it more like an astrix (*).. that way it lays flat. You can do this simply by laying your hobby knife’s blade down on the problem area. Once you put it down, then you’ll have a small window to muck with it before the tacky gloss coat grips it and you trash the transfer… but you do have some wiggle room.
Next step, is after you finish up your transfers, go back and hit them with Testors dull coat. this seals everything and makes it not shiny…. And you’re done… Normally, I paint in groups of 5. So once I finish with the last guy, it’s time to go back and do the dull coat thing..
Here’s some examples.